A letherworking hammer is typically made out of some "hard-enough" material such as hard plastic and not necessarily out of wood but one of the drawbacks of such a hammer is the length that might make the hammer incompatible with compact leatherworking kits. However, it is possible to turn such a hammer into a foldable device with just a bit of craftsmanship.

• Screw insets are a great way to insert a screw within some body without having to tap treads into the material. A brass-looking selection of insets have been singled out in order to be used for this project even though the only criteria for the selection would be the size.

• Screws. A collection of screws complementing the screw insets is necessary but the type of head is irrelevant because the head will be chopped off once the correct dimensions have been determined.

The geometry of the hammer is rather unfortunate. Not only is the hammer too long, but the bulb at the top is also fatter than the handle. Placing the hammer in a bag or kit would be difficult and it would be much preferred for both the hammer head and the handle to be separated. For this reason, the hammer can be sawed and the top part removed and then the two parts screwed together using a screw that will tap into both the hammer head and the handle that have been detached from each other.

It was decided to sever the connection between the hammer handle and the hammer head right at the top where the two parts connect and then sand down the two pieces in order to obtain a flat surface where inset taps can be inserted.

The insets are made to be pressed into the material and then screwed in using their own taps on the exterior and they do not need holes to be drilled. However, the plastic used for the hammer seems to be some very tough material and it is much easier to make the job easier for the insets as well such that it was decided to drill into the material, add the insets and then also supplement with some JB weld just to increase the tensile strength and make it unlikely that the inset could be removed by accident as well as use JB weld to adjust any irregularities on the surfaces where the insets have been added.

In the image above, the screw is placed next to the two pieces as reference, but the head of the screw will be sawed off in order to obtain just a small rod that will fit into both of the insets within the hammer head and the hammer handle.

The intended way of usage is that the hammer will now be disassembled after use and the two parts, as well as the small threaded metal rod placed together within a kit. Unfortunately, that means that the small metal rod will be left on its own and easy to lose such that a solution will have to be found in order to somehow tie the rod and some part of the hammer together.

The solution that has been chosen is to add another inset to the other part of the handle with a drilled hole that goes up into the handle just enough to almost hide the entire little rod. That way, when the two parts are disassembled, the small metal rod can be tucked into the handle in order to avoid losing the parts.

The final result is a hammer that can be assembled and disassembled when needed to be used or when it has to be placed within a kit. As can be observed, the hammer head can go into the pouch kept together by the mesh and the elastic band while the handlebar goes right next to the hammer head.

The leatherworking kit can now be closed, which is something that was not possible before given that the hammer was too large to fit.