The Crony DK-10 scooter is advertised as an off-road scooter boasting a two engine drive, with a maximum speed reaching , a total travel range of with one charge and with a load maximum of .

One of the nicest parts about the Crony DK-10 is that it is a good scooter to work with and to modify. The main components of the scooter are very powerful and for the price of the Crony, even top brand scooters such as Segway cannot compete. Similarly, the Crony DK-10 just needs some modifications, and some value added, in order to create quite an aesthetically pleasing and powerful transportation vehicle.

Some of these tune-ups do apply to most aftermarket scooters such that some of this page has been reduced and split up into various chapters on the E-Scooter Ubiquitous Tweaks page.

• The scooter uses something called Julet mini connectors to connect all the handlebar gear to the controller. These are available in different number of pin configurations and are said to be waterproof.

The battery label reads:

• HOPcell,
• Factory: Shen Zhen HOPcell Technology Co., Ltd.,
• Lithium-ion battery pack,
• Capacity: ,
• Voltage: ,
• Power:

The top label mentions the Crony model number (DK10) followed by for the rating of each engine.

There are two black cables leading to the battery, one of them connecting to the power jack on the side of the scooter chassis to which the charger connects to via a power jack.

The battery is connected to the two controllers using XT60 connectors providing power using two wires; red for voltage and black for ground.

The Crony DK-10 has two identical controllers, each of them powering each engine.

The label reads the following specifications:

• FOC Controller A/B
• Mode: JB6012-YML
• Voltage:
• LC:
• Undervoltage:
• Phase angle:
• Function: 3-speed, Anti-theft, Cruise, Speed Limit, De Pu Meter

The Crony DK-10 has two engines, both of them acting on the front and the rear wheel. By default, when the red "Single / Dual Engine" button is depressed on the handlebar, only the rear engine provides traction. If the dual engine button is pressed, both wheels will have traction.

The front wheel engine markers read "YAMALI60V2200W" and the serial code reads "21060067".

The front wheel engine markers read "YAMALI60V2200W" and the serial code reads "21060047".

• Although the scooter has a red stop light at the back, the stop light is only activated when using the left hand brake. Using the right hand break will not light up the rear stop light. One possible avenue to explore would be to short the left hand and the right hand wiring such that the stop light will come on regardless which of the brakes is used.
• The scooter has a stop light at the back but the stop light does not turn on at half light when the lights are turned on. Either an additional stop light could be fitted and tied into the headlights or additional cables can be added with a resistor to potentially hold the stop lights on at half light when the head lights go on.
• The third key position activates some blue strobe lights at the back that flash intermittently. The intent would have it that these are in-fact the stop lights to be used during the night. However, the strobe lights would be more of an emergency signalling device, they are non-standard and are more of gimmick. The strobe lights could be removed entirely and the third key position can be used for something else.
• The battery charger brick is very light but extremely bulky. One could potentially find a more compact charger and it it within the casing along with the battery. Similarly, the jack to recharge the scooter could be replaced by a standard kettle-cable socket such that charging the scooter would be a matter of using a simple kettle cable that could either be attached or carried easily.
• The front wheel shock absorbers are exposed such that any grime or dirt could seep into the mechanism. Perhaps some rubber bellows could be attached in order to protect the exposed mechanism.
• The rear wheel dirt flap is attached using two screws to the back of the rear wheel fender. The dirt flap is rubber, cheap and easily damaged, as well as being a nuisance such that it can be removed.
• The bottom chassis has two abrasive red strips glued onto the metal - ideally, the strips would provide some anti-slip protection for the feet. Unfortunately, the red strip are cheap, damaged within hours of usage as well as not really providing any real anti-slip protection. Furthermore, the red strips also seem to be dirt magnets. Ideally, the strips could be removed and some other decal or anti-slip solution found to cover the bottom chassis.
• Even though the scooter is capable of driving at there are no steering dampeners attached. One could perhaps attach a steering dampener for more stability.
• Although aesthetically pleasing by design, the three front headlights seem excessive. Not only do they drain power, but also increase the load on the scooter. It would be more sensible to find just one single headlight with an equivalent amount of illumination in order to replace all the three headlights.
• The cabling and electric inside the scooter is rubbish and should be overhauled at the earliest.
• The battery shipped with the Crony scooter is rated at and which makes the battery way underpowered for the engines. It would be a good idea to replace the battery with proper rating; perhaps at least or more.
• Both wheels are completely de-centered. When the scooter is sped up beyond , the vibrations caused are terrible and reflect through the entire chassis. Either the scooter should be taken to a garage and a centrifuge used to balance the wheels or perhaps some weights could be added manually.
• It would be nice to have a clear view of what lies behind the scooter. The speeds that the Crony DK-10 can reach are rather high such that when switching lanes it would be useful to be able to see behind without having to turn around. Either rear-view mirrors could be added, cameras mounted, or perhaps both.
• The controllers provided with the Crony DK-10 seem to have the cruise-control feature. However, cruise control is not advertised with the Crony DK-10. It seems sensible that even though the controller(s) has this feature, there is just no button to activate it. Perhaps a switch could be added on the handlebar in order to make the cruise control feature work.
• The Crony logo on the main mast could be removed and replaced with something more customized. In order to preserve the brand, the "Crony" logo can be recreated in a smaller size and placed somewhere less obtrusive.
• Since the scooter will be extended, it makes sense to add a power distributor with more USB ports than the one provided with the Crony DK-10. A simple solution is to perhaps leverage the existing USB power supply and then use an USB hub to provide power to multiple ports.

Given the design flaws, the following are some solutions to make the scooter somewhat easier to use as well as to prolong its lifespan.

Just like any new mechanical equipment, the scooter is delivered with "just the right amount" of lubrication. However, it seems that the scooter tends to squeak, scream and scratch; in particular, when the brakes are used the break disk squeaks. A good idea is to use some WD-40 and give the entire scooter an oil bath. This would involve applying the oil over all joints, all exposed metal connections, the break disk as well as wiping the entire chassis with WD-40 oil. Keep in mind that the scooter's specifications mention that the scooter is made from aluminium and steel such that the scooter is not immune to rusting.

After the oil bath, it seems that the scooter rides much more smoothly and does not squeak from all joints. An oil bath has been applied and after a few hours, the scooter was driven for one hour to make sure that the oil penetrates all the cracks. Some additionally oil has then been applied and the process repeated.

The "DYISLAND" brakes that are supplied with the Crony DK-10 seem to use an induction module that draws a line towards the chassis in order to tell the controller that the rider is pressing on the brakes. In turn, the controller will turn on the brake light at the back of the scooter.

It might happen that both brakes do not make the rear tail light light up when one or the other brakes are pressed. This might be due to the induction module needing to be adjusted on the bottom of the brakes.

The module is held on the bottom of the brakes and fastened with two screws. The module can be removed by undoing the screws.

One good way to test whether everything works is to just gently slide the module on the bottom of the brakes up and down while holding the brake. In doing so, hopefully in some given position along the bottom of the brake, the tail light might light up.

Remembering the position, the induction module can be screwed back on again.

Now both brakes should work and the tail light should light up when either one or the other brakes is held down.

A pair of handlebar mirrors can be added on either side of the scooter. Even though the grips on the handlebar of the Crony DK-10 are rubberized and closed, a small knife can be used to cut through the rubber and reveal the empty handlebar pipe. Once open, the handlebar mirrors can be added to both sides.

The handlebar mirrors that were purchased have a mechanism that is inserted into the hollow handlebar pipe and then using a screw the mirrors expand inside the pipe and expand to form a perfect grip. The mirrors can then be adjusted by hand and fit perfectly to offer a clear view of the rear left and right. The Crony DK-10 is powerful enough to reach a theoretical speed of such that when switching lanes it is imperative to have a good view of what lies behind the scooter.

For style, it seemed natural that the mirrors are round since it matches the bulky lines of the Crony DK-10 scooter. Furthermore, it is also possible to spray-paint the mirrors red in order to give the impression of horns, given that the rest of the scooter is black.

A better solution consists in adding mirrors that point outward to the side of the scooter instead of the inside in order to obtain a better viewing angle.

This model is slightly better since the mirror size is larger and there is a better overall view.

As mentioned in the design flaws section, the Crony DK-10 ships without the stop light activated. Even though the breaks do trigger the stop light, there is no permanent light in the back. Opening up the scooter reveals two connectors coming from the rear stop light. One of the connector leads to a jack on the controller that activates the stop lights when the brakes are pressed whilst the other connector is not connected to anything.

Since we plan on removing the three front lights and replacing them with a large light, one solution is to connect the floating rear stop light to the same connector that starts the front lights. First, the connector is hooked up to a voltmeter and reveals that the rear stoplight has the same voltage as the battery, namely . This means that the LEDs in the stoplight at the back are made to work at the same voltage such that no modification is necessary to the PCB.

The traces on the PCB itself reveal a simple circuit that places multiple LEDs in series. One of the trace channels is fed by the same connectors that power the breaks whilst the second trace channel leads to the floating connector to be found inside the Crony DK-10.

As a small test, the stop light PCB is lifted up and injected into the secondary trace channel that leads to the outer LEDs. As anticipated, the lights come on properly.

It is interesting that these lights have not been connected and that the connector has been left floated since having rear stop lights is the most law-abiding way to signal presence in the dark and since the Crony already has that feature, it would make sense for the connector to be used.

That being said, the tail light connector is hooked up to the leads that power the front lights such that when the lights button on the handlebar is engaged, the stop lights will light up.

After putting everything back together, the tail lights on the rear fender will light up once the headlights are turned on from the handlebar switch.

The stoplight is held in place using hot melt glue and not a great solution. The stoplight can be removed and then two holes drilled right onto the stands.

The result is then screwed back in place on the rear fender.

It comes to mind that a large round headlight would make a great replacement and will give the scooter a classical look that matches the overall style. One of the nicer solutions out there is the Lukas Du-142 having a total width of 8" (roughly ) as well as a beautiful ampermeter on the top that shows the power consumption.

The Lukas Du-142 is not produced anymore however replicas are to be found on various websites that go for quite a reasonable price. Unfortunately, the Lukas Du-142 is rated at whilst the Crony front lights are powered at such that a step down from to would be needed. A further complication is that the Lukas Du-142 comes with a bulb that is rated at about resulting in a total drain of of power. of power might be too high a drain on the battery and would consume too much such that a better solution would be to somehow leverage the front lights that have been removed with the Lukas Du-142.

The first step is to remove the front lights and then salvage one of the front light PCB. The PCB along with the Julet connector is then fitted on top of the Lukas Du-142 reflector. Some JB weld is added on the sides in order to make a stable connection to the metal. In order to help the JB weld solidify, some heat-reistant Kapton tape is used to fasten down the PCB.

Note that salvaging the Crony DK-10 headlights is a huge pain and required a Dremel to effectively saw the headlight open. Even though the headlight opens via a screw fastening, the cable is still stuck in the casing such that cutting the aluminium case open is the only solution to retrieve the PCB intact.

First the outer shell of the Lukas Du-142 is drilled using the Dremel in order to produce two holes to which the mounting bracket of the center-most frontlight is fitted. This provides quite a remarkably stable mount for the Lukas Du-142 lamp.

One of the beautiful consequences for using a large lamp such as the Lukas Du-142 is that the Lukas has a huge light diffuser such that even if the same PCB is used the light cast appears to be much larger and covers a larger overall area.

Here is another view from the very front of the scooter with the fitted Lukas.

In order to add a touch of color to the Crony DK-10, the front and rear fenders are removed and then spray-painted red.

Unfortunately, everything involving the circuitry underneath the rear fender involves hot melt plastic glue which has been removed in the process and replaced by velcro straps and double-sided sticky tape mounts.

The result is somewhat nicer and definitely easier to remove in case further changes have to be made. Ideally, the rear stop light will have holes drilled and fixed onto the fender using screws instead of being just fixed int othe fender with hot melt glue.

Even though the Crony logo on the main axle of the scooter looks quite appealing, for the sake of further customization using a vinyl sticker, the logo just has to go. First, the logo on both sides is sanded with the Dremel.

After that, the sanded area is spray painted with a matching black color. Painter tape is used on both sides in order to protect the areas that do not have to be painted.

The result is a blank main axle that is just waiting for vinyl to be applied to it. A new vinyl logo is then be applied on top of the painted area.

The application method implies sticking the application tape with the vinyl logo onto the main mast and then using a piece of cardboard to make sure that the sticker applies uniformly. After a while, the transfer tape can then be removed and the vinyl logo should remain.

Out of all options, the VSYSTO B6 dash cam seems to be the most compact and also the best choice for a small scooter. The VSYSTO B6 can be powered via an USB port and provides a rear and front camera that can be mounted onto the scooter.

The rear camera can be mounted on the chassis or even on top of the rear engine.

Unfortunately, a Dremel had to be used in order to enlarge the holes in the chassis in order to pull the wires to the cameras in the back and front.

The wires have been wrapped in blue painter tape in order to prevent the sheath to be scratched by the holes in the chassis.

The VSYSTO B6 requires a microSD card and provides loop recording when the scooter is in motion. The device has been powered by plugging the USB cable into the Crony 5V USB regulator since the step down module provided by the VSYSTO dash cam only converts between and .

Additionally, a handlebar extender has been added in order to allow for more gadgets to be added.

The Crony DK-10 provides power via an USB device that is mounted onto the handlebar. Disassembling the USB power supply reveals a simple step-down circuit that convers from the battery to the required USB power.

A good solution is to purchase an USB hub and then connect the hub to the step-down. Perhaps a better solution would be to pull the step-down inside the scooter chassis and then leave just the USB hub outside on the handlebar. Perhaps a good choice is a round USB hub that provides power output to five ports.

The step-down is dismantled in order to detach the handlebar mount and then re-attach the handlebar mount onto the USB hub.

The result is then assembled back onto the scooter handlebar in order to provide more ports for further developments.

The to USB power supply provided with the Crony scooter is just a step down and the attached USB hub is an USB 2.0-compliant hub such that the hub itself could be further modified in order to just be a power distributor. More than likely, the simplest way is to replace the controller chip with straight-through cables.

When driving the scooter through harsh weather, in particular, hot weather, tires become more susceptible to punctures due to the rubber that dilates and makes it easier for nails, bits of glass and other paraphernalia to puncture the tire.

One of the products that can be found on the market boasts a sort of goo that is able to seal punctures but more importantly is advertised to remain in liquid form, only solidifying when the goo combines with the air and the rubber.

The product is easy to apply and provides a handy key that is able to conveniently remove the inner tire valve in order to introduce the product inside the tire. The product is provided as a bottle and the recommendations for a petrol scooter is about of the bottle - nevertheless, the decision was taken to pour half a bottle in each tire.

After the interior of the tires is coated with the product, the indications state that the scooter must be driven for a little while such that the centrifugal force applies the goo on the inner rubber of the tires.